Chandni Chowk Kapada Market

Our series on cloth or fabric markets in Delhi continues.... 

I know you will probably laugh when I say this, but that there is a designated Kapada Market in Chandni Chowk which only sells kapada or cloth or apparel. However to a casual shopper or observer Chandni Chowk is one huge kapada market and with an equal number of shops selling mouth watering delicacies.

Chandni Chowk has been a preferred sourcing market for ready made garments. Although the market does sell to the retail customer, the bulk of the business comes from the wholesale buyers. The wholesale buyers range from small shopkeepers from Delhi, those who own across the city to shopkeepers from smaller towns like Panipat, Patiala, Rourkee, Dehradun etc.  It is not uncommon to see shopkeepers from Rohini, Sangam Vihar or Kalkaji make a trip to Chandni Chowk when their respective markets are closed to pick up stock from Chandni Chowk.

The USP or unique selling proposition of the market is the wide availability of traditional Indian garments. Its strong point is the lehenga, salwar kurta, kurtis in a host of fabric. The range covering chiffons, georgettes, cotton, terrycots, woollen to hakoba and summer wear. The sets are available in the entire range of sizes. The buyer has to either buy all sizes in a particular colour or in a particular size a  minimum of 6 to 8 pieces. It is the sheer variety which is mind boggling. Most shops specialise in one or the other garments. So there are those specially dealing in work or zardozi wear, there are those selling only cotton wear. So popular has readymade garments become in Chandni Chowk that it has spilled over from the traditional Cloth Market to other markets as well. Even lanes of Nai Sarak (known for its second hand books and paper) has a number of shops selling garments as also those in Dariba Kalan. The crowded bylanes do brisk business and is choc a block on Saturdays.

Apart from readymade garments, fabric is available in plenty. The number of little shops that appear at each corner or a gully is astounding for the initial visitor.

Then there is the Kinnari Bazaar for as the name suggests Kinnari. It is ideal for shopping for zari, borders, laces and zardozi. The Kinnari earlier were made in pure silver threads with real gold covering. Now it is lurex, copper zaris and the like which rule. There are several shops which still real stuff. It is known for the zari work. Most of the work is made in the bylanes of Chandni Chowk itself. Katra Neel again in Chandni Chowk is known for its muslin, cotton, silk and much more. There is so much diversity that one needs to research and one can truly come up with gems.

Timings – 11 am to 7 pm (Monday to Saturdays). The market is closed on Sundays.

Where  - Chandni Chowk. Enter through the main road. Shish Ganj Gurdwara Road. The Cloth market is situated towards the end. You could query the rickshaw walas or shopkeepers.

Highlights -  The shops are a plenty. Go with your instincts and pick up what you like.

Insider Tip – The market has the latest that is available. There are shops at the back side and in the bylanes. Several shopkeepers have their godowns there. Once you strike a friendship with the shopkeepers and are a regular, the place is easier to navigate. Bargaining is possible to an extent.

Nostalgia – The Rs. 12.50 Student’s Bus pass (Sade barah bus pass)

 

Yes, the Rs. 12.50 Student’s bus pass from DTC which remained unchanged for decades. A little increase to even Rs. 15, was met with such resistance from DUSU (Delhi University Students Union), that no one, I repeat no one dare increase it :):). Of course, there was a problem of renewing it every month. An alternative was to get it made for 3 months. It meant freedom, licence to travel anywhere in any DTC bus…Those days, needs were simpler and U special were the norms.

These memories were refreshed during a conversation with my cousin Pradeep.  They moved from Delhi to Ahmedabad a good 20 years ago. Born and brought up in Delhi, he has not visited Delhi since. So in all curiosity he queried about the status of Delhi buses. Amidst hoots of laughter and shouts we discussed the DTC buses saga. The DTC bus was replaced or over run more like it, by the much condemned Red Line. Having been contractual buses, they would stuff to capacity. Would call passengers by hitting on the outside of the bus. The shouting – Newda (Noida), Naraina, Bartania (Britannia factory on the way to Rohini)…was imitated. Pradeep had his old bus pass which he gladly photographed and sent. I think, I may have mine somewhere…will add to this photo if I find it.  The pink colour bus pass was made at Scindia House which was DTC’s headquarters. He asked me if the old yellow green standard DTC buses still ran.

I said an unfortunate "no", they have been replaced by a fleet of smart buses. There is the green one, the airconditioned red one and of course the electric vehicle the blue one.

I have been caught with life – work, home, hearth, friends…that there has been nay a time for nostalgia or reminiscing. Transport within Delhi was, "less said the better". Then Metro happened, as did Uber, Ola, BluSart and Rapido. Driving a car made life simpler, the roads were not this crowded. Now of course, navigating the roads and driving is a task and the reflexes one needs to avoid wrong lane, wrong overtake will put a race car driver to shame. Travel within Delhi became simpler and even thinking of buses or our travels to DU has been a distant memory. But those memories of idle time sitting at bus stops, watching the world go by, wasting time seems a thing of the past. I am not sure how DU students travel, whether there are still DU specials. The routes of various buses seems to have changed.

Maybe in the coming blogs, I will visit the DTC bus depots. I am told there are four types of buses – green, orange, red and blue. Blue being the e-buses. Buses are free for women….watch out for more on DTC and the current mode of transportation.