Trip to the Potter's colony - Kumaron ki Basti - Delhi

Summer may spell heat and dust for many, but it is production in full swing at the Kumharon ki basti. It is during the summer months that a majority of the wares that is sold during the rest of the year is made. In winter, it becomes too cold and the clay being colder makes it difficult to work. Also drying of the objects in the sun is difficult. During summers, the clay is cool to work with, it needs to watered frequently and the objects dry faster naturally under the sun.  This humble environs supplies nearly everything that is sold by way of pottery in Delhi – from the kulhars, matkas, pots to fancy garden accessories, designer Ganeshas, figurines, huge planters, fancy lamps, humble diyas, designer diyas with holders and more. With the onset of the monsoons, drying of the objects is a problem. So it is in the summer months that a major portion of the production for the festival season also takes place. Not only that, many studio potters source their supply of mud and clay (chikni mitti) from these potters. Mud depending on what is to made and the technique is sourced from various lakes in the neighbouring areas. The Kumharon ki basti is one where tradition blends with the modern seamlessly. It is where a past technology sits comfortably with the contemporary. One can see traces of modernity. Electric wheels have replaced hand operated wheels. Of course, most of them are adept at using the hand operated wheels as well. This place is a pottery shopper’s paradise given the variety to choose from and of course the literally wholesale prices. Several of the tools used in the production is shaped by the potter’s themselves. The area is home to a couple of Shilp Gurus, several State Awardees and Master Craftspersons. Several potters from abroad visit the Shilp Gurus and other potters to learn the local technique. Some to write about them, some to even stay and do a residency course, several potters conduct hobby classes in schools and at various facilities.

Where – Potter’s Colony or Kumharaon ki Basti. This one is behind Bindapur (Dwaraka). One can also access it from Janakpuri. Reach Janakpuri bus stand.  Ask around and you can go there. The lanes are narrow and cannot take the auto. Walking by foot is the best option or a rickshaw. There is another potter's colony beyond...which I shall cover later.

Timings – There are no particular timings. One can go anytime. Though the best time during winters is the afternoon after 12 pm.

Highlights -  Organising regular pottery tours will add to income of the potters and of course showcase our ancient skills.  Just walk around and pick what you like. Several potters will have wares displayed outside the house. It is not picture perfect but is a very interesting walk through. Dusshera and Diwali are the best time to visit this place. It is a good thought to buy your Diyas and other clay items from here as the money goes straight to the potter.

Insider Tip –  There are several Shilp Gurus, Master Craftsman (Potters), State Awardees and some who are very good without any awards. One can find potters from North especially Haryana, Rajasthan, Azamgarh Black pottery, Pottery from Alwar. Stoneware, ceramic, double fired, burnished stone.  There are also potters from Manipur who make Manipuri Black pottery ware. These are exceptional. Also similar pottery from Meghalaya is being done.

Alaknanda Market

Alaknanda grew into a little place in its own right in the late 80s. From a market built by DDA and buildings sold by private parties, the market developed. It was a wonderful little market with shoppers from far off coming to shop there. It had an excellent shoe shop called Lucky shoes which had the best of designs. There was a nice saree shop called Neera’s sarees. There was Bhatia who had the most amazing salwar kurta ensembles. Renu’s had cassettes, audio and video ones. He graduated on to selling imported rip offs from Taiwan, Hong Kong etc. Good set of tailors. The market place was the typical Delhi market place where everyone knew everyone. It was like a family where the shopkeeper and customer cared about each other and their well being. There was a family camaradiere.

Those days are no longer there. The arrival of ATMs and Banks changed all that. Suddenly a lot of shopkeepers upped and sold. So, the nice salwar Kurta shop of Bhatia became a notary shop. The designer ware shops changed hands. Lucky shoes gave off his shops to a Bank and so on. But several others and orginals stay and are doing well. Both Airtel and Voda have their dedicated shop. Renu is still there and now sells garments exclusively. They have a good range. There are two silver shops, one at the entrance and the other inside. Both have decent collections. Shagun Jewellers at the entrance used to sell some fantastic silver jewellery especially the export varieties from Jaipur. I have been a sucker and have bought quite a bit. He used to be someone who is to say, “achhi lagi to le jao, paise badh mein aa jayenge” and yes, the payment was prompt and there was no problem. Renu has sent home sweaters and T-shirts for my Dad when he was unwell and Daddy had loved shopping from home! Nagarik, the shoe shop has a There are some spiffy tailors, the good drycleaner – Mercury, The Mehendiwala, watch repairer, chemist…it is worth spending time here. There is a little Mini Market from behind the Post Office. It has the usual legal documentation centres, property dealers, electic shops and a couple of eaterires.   

Where – In Alaknanda. It is on the main road from Greater Kailash II. From Savitri Cinema turn right and keep going down straight. You will hit the T-point. This is the last point, beyond this, the road hits a dead end. At this T-point turn left and keep going down straight crossing Don Bosco School and St. George’s School on your left. The market is beyond the red light after Godavari Apartments.

Timings – Morning 10.30 am to 9 pm. Tuesdays are closed. But most remain open on Tuesdays, especially in the evening. Some shops open by 9 am also.  There is a fully functional Post Office and four Banks.

Highlights – There is a good shoe shop called Nagrik. It offers some excellent range for daily and fancy wear. There are a couple of shops selling cosmetics and stock a wonderful range. There are quite a few momo stalls in the evening. There are a couple of paranthawalas and kulchawala who work in the afternoon.

Insider Tip – Bikanerwala has an amazing array of cakes. All eggless and a huge range of flavours to choose from.  The owner loves to experiment and there is an exotic range to choose from. As also their range of ghevars, gujiyas and other mithais. There is  boutique who has been running it for a long time now. Namita stocks good wares. Sahni General Store stocks almost everything and one gets a free dose of Sahni Bhaiiyas down to earth humorous tips delivered with a dead pan face. It is still a good market with a friendly set of shopkeepers. Biggest drawback, does not have a good restaurant. This is though amply made up by eateries in GK II M block market.